It’s not easy to offer immaculate service and be disarmingly down to earth at the same time, but staff at the 12 -room Ett Hem in Stockholm’s leafy embassy district manage the trick with aplomb. The name means “home” – in this case, a stylish temple to Nordic cosiness. Housed in a mansion built in 1910, the hotel’s design shows how it might have looked in its day, with candlelit, parquet-floored drawing rooms furnished with contemporary and vintage Scandinavian furniture – one with a grand piano for all to play – that lead into a book-lined dining room. There are plenty of places to curl up, dine or both. The food is exceptional: the chefs – several escapees from Michelin-starred restaurants – rustle up local, seasonal meals on request (beef tartare kimchi was a favourite) in front of guests at the kitchen table. There’s also a pretty conservatory, terraced garden and Swedish sauna. Each bedroom is decadent and unique, with an antique porcelain-tiled wood burner here, a vast free-standing tub there.